Author: Doryan Rice

Summer time is here! Well, it’s almost gone, but next week it’ll probably be back, as is the nature of Texas. Ah, summer. With its sweltering heat, its bikini-clad sunbathers, and the knowledge that your New Year’s Resolution to lose 20 pounds didn’t quite go so well. What to do? I say ignore the food truck with the duck fat fries and truffle aioli that hangs around your favorite swimming hole, taunting your love for all things fried and emulsified.

Swim, my little pretties…

 

So, what to do? Distract your mouth with some foods that are crispy, healthy, and flavorful. Having something that’s on the cool side is a great idea as well, just help you beat the heat. And since the Mediterranean Diet is all the rage nowadays, give this little paleo twist on a traditional treat will hit all the tight spots, and help to keep the pounds off!

Turkey Kafta Lettuce Wraps with Cucumber Salad and Roasted Garlic Tahini Sauce

Let’s start with the salad, since the onions need to marinate.

Tomato Cucumber Salad

1/2 cup Red Wine Vinegar 
1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 T Dijon Mustard
1 T Agave Nectar
3 cloves garlic
1/2 cup Parsley, chopped

1 cucumber, peeled and seeded
1/2 pint Grape Tomatoes, sliced lengthwise
1/2 Red Onion, quartered and sliced

• Combine the first 6 ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Season to taste
• Toss the onions in the dressing and let it sit for about an hour.
• Add in the cucumbers and let marinate for about 1/2 an hour more.
• Finally, toss in the tomatoes.

Turkey Kafta Meatballs

1.5 lbs Ground Turkey Thigh
1 cup Bread Crumbs or Almond Flour
2 eggs
1/2 cup Parsley, chopped
1/2 cup Cilantro, chopped
8 cloves Garlic, minced
1/2 an Onion, finely chopped
2T Cumin
2T Coriander
Salt and Pepper to taste

 

• Pre-heat oven to 350
• Combine all ingredients in a glass bowl and mix well.
• Form into meatballs. You should get between 12 and 16, depending on size.
• Place on a greased baking sheet lined with foil or parchment
• Bake for 20-25 minutes

 

 

 

Roasted Garlic Tahini Sauce

1/3 cup Roasted Garlic cloves 
4 T Tahini
Juice of one lemon
2 T Sriracha Sauce
1/3 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Salt and pepper to taste

• Combine above ingredients in a food processor
• Adjust seasonings
• If the sauce “breaks”, add a bit of water and re-blend until smooth

In order to assemble this properly, so that you can wrap this all without too much spillage, cut the meatballs in half before placing in a leaf of romaine. Top that off with a bit of salad and a fair amount of the sauce and enjoy this flavorful treat!

 

Recently, I was introduced to the wonders of a video series called 18th Century Cooking. And since February is a time many reserve for exploring and appreciating African-American culture, I was enamored of their series called “Food of the Enslaved” after a friend recommended it.

The first one that intrigued me was their episode on Kush, which was an African predecessor to what we know of as cornbread stuffing (or dressing in the South). It’s also where the cajun pudding-like side of the same name originated, and likely the progenitor of the word couscous.

Michael Twitty is superb and I look forward to reading his book that follows African-American culinary history throughout the South. He also sent me down a rabbit hole in the episode where they explored Okra Soup, when he mentioned an ingredient called “kitchen pepper.” It seems that before there was Old Bay or Mrs. Dash, there was a staple spice blend called kitchen pepper, which consisted of a mix of black, white, and red pepper along with seasonings that seem far from traditional white Southern fare. Much more likely they came from African influence.

But where to try out some of these wonderful flavors?

Thankfully, I had the opportunity at the annual Dinner with the Bishop, benefitting Camp Allen. They wanted bacon-wrapped quail as one of their meats, so I paired that with a pork tender with mustard marmalade glaze, and was searching for viable sides.

 

Kush to the rescue! This stuff came out fabulously. I crumbled up some buttermilk cornbread, sliced some onions and chopped some herbs, and we were off! Since Twitty recommends cooking the hash in animal fat, I used a fair bit of duck fat for this one. The flavor was perfect. One thing I’d recommend if doing this at home is not using red onions if setting it to keep warm for a while if you’re preparing the rest of your meal. They tend to break down and lose their lovely color.

 

I also wanted to try my hand at utilizing kitchen pepper. I found a couple old recipes online and made my own, using it to flavor my collard greens along with some smoked turkey necks. Using the necks, spice mix, and onion, I made a nice broth to add while cooking the greens and onions in batches. Pulling apart turkey necks isn’t easy, but getting that meat back in with the greens really makes them shine.

 

For the record, here’s what my spice mix ended up being:

• 1 T black pepper
• 1T white pepper
• 1T ground chipotle pepper
• 1T cinnamon
• 1.5 T ground ginger
• .5 T Nutmeg
• .5 T Clove
• .5 T Mace
• .5 T Allspice

Here’s the finished plate, which was a huge hit!

The best part was going around to the well-to-do folks enjoying the meal and educating them on the origins of not only what they’d been eating, but where some of their favorite recipes originated. Many thanks to the ingenuity of people who, though suffering under horrible conditions, managed to provide so many future generations with an amazing array of flavors that have influenced so many.

Last year, I finally caved and bought my first electric smoker. It just made sense for catering gigs that want things like brisket. I can set and forget for a couple hours while I get other things accomplished. Masterbuilt makes a fine smoker, so I bought their 40″ smoker from Academy, which had some of the better prices I saw for smokers.

A couple notes on buying:

• You might notice there are only descriptions of actual size on some of those smokers, and not all. I had to go to the store and visually inspect each model to make sure what I was getting. For the record, the 140B and the 140S models are exactly the same with just a couple differences.
• The 140S costs about $50 more, has stainless around the front and sides, a window, a light, and a meat probe.
• I don’t care about the window, as it gets smoked out easily, as does the light. I do like the stainless look, however the biggest reason I opted for the 140S is the meat probe. THIS WAS A MISTAKE. That probe is only reliable in its untrustworthiness. Don’t trust that temp reading, as it’s way off from where a proper meat thermometer will read.
• That all being said, the 140S is a great smoker overall. Just make sure you know what you’re paying that extra $50 for.

Now, the other day, I was invited over for a proper BBQ, where everything’s actually smoked. “Hooray!” I thought, “It’s a great excuse to get out my smoker and play with some ideas!”

After falling down the rabbit hole of smoked vegetable recipes, I settled on a few things. I used other peoples’ recipes just to get started. Let’s see how they turned out!

Bourbon Smoked Salmon

I got the idea from this site, because it sounded tasty. I opted for using a salt/sugar 1:1 ratio and some bourbon, rather than doing the soy sauce thing. I also didn’t follow much of their instructions. Instead, I relied on this site, which I think has a better overall grasp on making a quality smoked fish.

I ended up with a shorter/hotter cook than he recommends 170/1.5 hrs + 190/1 hr, because I was running low on time and other smoked items needed a good 100 degree higher temp.

(plan out your smokes, folks!)

My basting liquid was more bourbon mixed in with some blackstrap molasses, and it worked out great!

 

Smoked Cabbage

This one was by far the hit of the evening, and was so very easy. I used this recipe, more or less. I had some extra Salt Lick rub in the pantry, and used cider vinegar instead of balsamic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still, super easy and super tasty. The only thing is that the rub doesn’t really have anywhere to go, so it’s pretty much congregated in the center area. But the mix of spice and butter is amazingly good!

 

Smoked Mushrooms and Tomatoes

These both went over really well, though the tomatoes didn’t turn out like I expected. I used the larger tomatoes and sliced them into 3 large pieces. A little EVO, Salt and Pepper was all they needed. They melted in your mouth fabulously, but were a bit on the mushy side, so not easy to transport and serve. Plus, they were SUPER shiny. Kinda strange but definitely tasty!

The mushrooms I just tossed in some leftover balsamic vin overnight to marinate, then threw them on the rack with the tomatoes.

 

Bacon-stuffed Smoked Onions

This is one I remember from back when we used to watch Barbecue U on PBS. Steve Raichlen did these like 20 years ago, and I swore one day I’d make them. I used Black Forest bacon from Trader’s, and seeded my jalapenos. Next time, I might add more of those, or leave some seeds in, because the stuffing got almost lost. However, it was really tasty when you got a bite where the flavors all connected.

For serving these, I recommend cutting them in quarters, and kind of reassembling some stuffing on each. This worked out best. The bbq sauce got a bit lost as well, but I’m not sure it was entirely needed.

Either way, I highly recommend you try out these and other recipes  to keep your smoker in regular use!

Happy Cooking!

The holiday is upon us, and people are getting excited about pumpkin-based food and drink. Of course, by the end of the year, people will be truly tired of pumpkin in just about everything, but for now, we can rejoice in the love of these gorgeous gourds!

 

Last night, I went on a cooking binge and did a few experiments. My dinner consisted of some store-bought crepes that I spread with a mixture of puréed pumpkin and sour cream. Then, I sautéed some leeks with garlic, sage, white wine, and roasted chicken. Altogether stuffed inside a crepe, these make a great savory treat!

But today, I’ve given into my weakness for sweetness, and worked with some fresh plums supplied from my girlfriend’s mother to come up with a delicious treat. Hopefully, I’ll find several people to help me finish it.

Pumpkin Plum Upside-Down Cake

Pre-heat oven to 350.

Melt 1 stick of butter in a cast iron skillet on low heat. Add brown and white sugars, and stir to melt together. Place the slices of plum in concentric circles around the pan and allow them to caramelize in the mixture for couple of minutes, then remove from heat.

Cream the rest of the butter and sugar in a mixer until smooth. Then, add eggs one at a time.

Add in yogurt and pumpkin and blend until well incorporated.

Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl. Then add slowly to the rest of the mix. 

Spoon the cake batter over the plum mixture, and carefully spread it across the pan.

Bake at 350 for 25-30 minutes until set. Let sit for 10 minutes before inverting onto a serving platter.

Enjoy with some vanilla ice cream.

 

 

That’s right! Even if you don’t need chef services every day, you might find you’d appreciate a chef on those special occasions. Need flowers? We can pick them up. Want a wine recommendation to match your menu? We can make it happen. The other night, our couple wanted to re-live their trip last year to Italy, so I constructed four courses to give them a little return journey.

We had special menus printed out, wines paired, and flowers arranged. Below is the menu, and I’ll even throw in one of the recipes that turned out amazingly well!

Antipasto:
Fiche con Gorgonzola
Baked Figs with Gorgonzola, Walnuts, and Lavender Balsamic Reduction

Primo:
Minestra di Mais e Granchio
Chilled Corn Soup with Crab and Chive Oil

Secondo:
Pettine Tagliata
Seared Sea Scallops with Balsamic Mushrooms over Arugula with Rosemary Potatoes and Lemon Truffle Vinaigrette

Dolce:
Gelato di Vaniglia con Fragole
Vanilla Gelato with Fresh Strawberries, drizzled with Chocolate Balsamic Reduction

Now, you may be thinking that corn isn’t Italian, but keep in mind that they do have polenta over there. Plus, before the voyage to the New World, Italy didn’t have many other ingredients that we now associate with Italian food. Bell Peppers, tomatoes, and other nightshades are (historically speaking) relatively new to Italian cuisine.

In any case, here’s a great chilled soup recipe to enjoy at the end of your summer.

Chilled Corn and Crab Soup with Chive Oil

2 ears Corn
1/2 Yellow Onion, diced
6 cloves Garlic, Minced
1/2 lb King Crab Legs
2 cups Chicken Stock
1 bunch Chives, chopped
1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Cut the crab out of its shell, and reserve some large pieces of the shell for the stock.

Saute the onion and garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil until soft. Add the corn, crab shell, stock and a bit of salt and pepper.

Bring to a boil, then reduce and let simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes.

Remove from heat and take out the crab shells and corn. Cut the corn from the cob and discard the shells. Return the corn kernels to the stock mixture, reserving about a 1/2 cup for garnish.

Blend the corn and stock mixture until smooth. Put half of the mixture through a mesh strainer for a smooth texture. Then thicken that thinner mixture with the rest of the puréed corn. Place in the fridge to chill for at least an hour.

 

 

 

 

For garnish, toss the remaining whole corn kernels with 2 tablespoons of chopped chives. Blend the remaining chives with the rest of the olive oil until smooth.

To serve, ladle a bit of the soup mixture into a small bowl or cup, crumble a bit of crab into it, top with the corn/chive mixture, and drizzle with the chive oil. Enjoy the delicate flavors!

I know, I know. I’ve posted about green chile before. And I may post about it again next year. Why? Because you can never have too many things with green chile in them. Whole Foods and Central Market make sure you know this by bombarding you with fresh and roasted chiles all over the place. Heck, I even found green chile chicken and turkey sausages at the meat counter. But what to do with them? Something special needed to happen.

Correction: Special, but not quite this special.

 

So, after I resisted the urge for green chile queso fries, I came up with a meal that’s much healthier, and has great flavor. I hope you enjoy it!

 

Sausages with Green Chile Corn Beer Blanc, Southwestern Hash, and Avocado Salad with Heart of Palm

It’s easier than it sounds. Let’s get started!

Avocado Heart of Palm Salad

• 1/2 bunch Cilantro
• 3 cloves Garlic
• juice of 1/2 limes
• 1 T Sugar or Agave Nectar
• 1 T Dijon
• 1/3 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• salt and pepper to taste
• 2 Avocados, diced
• 1 can Hearts of Palm
• 1/2 Red Onion, quartered and sliced

– Put everything except the Avocado, Palm, and Onion into a small processor and blend well.

– Toss the onions in and let them sit for about half an hour, then toss in the hearts of palm.

 

 

 

 

– When ready to serve, throw in the avocado and mix well.

 

While that’s marinating, get your prep for other dishes going!

Southwestern Hash with Corn, Black Beans and Sweet Potato

• 1/2 Red Onion, diced
• 3-4 Roasted Green Chiles, seeded, peeled and chopped
• 1 small Sweet Potato, diced
• 4 cloves Garlic, minced
• 1 can Black Beans, drained
• 1 cup Corn kernels
• 1 T Oregano
• 2 t Thyme
• 1 T Red Wine Vinegar
• salt and pepper to taste

 

– Sauté the onions in a bit of oil, adding the sweet potato after about a minute.

 

 

 

 

 

-Add in the garlic, chile, and spices, letting them cook in for about 45 seconds, then deglaze a bit with the vinegar.

-After another couple of minutes, stir in the other ingredients. If you’ve started cooking the sausages, add in about a 1/2 cup of the beer. Lower heat and let the flavors meld while you get your sauce and sausages ready.

 

Sausages with Green Chile Corn Beer Blanc

• 2-4 Sausages (I used Green Chile Chicken with Cheddar)
• 1 can good Beer (I used a Lemongrass Saison)
• 1 Shallot, halved and sliced
• 1 roasted Green Chile, peeled, seeded, and chopped
• 1/2 cup Corn kernels
• juice of 1 Lime
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1/4 c butter (optional, see below)

– Heat the beer in a sauce pan and boil the raw sausages for about 10-15 minutes.

– Move the sausages to your toaster oven and cook for another 10 minutes. Keep warm.

 

-Reserve 1/2 cup of the beer mixture to add to the hash (see above). For the rest, add in the shallots and reduce the amount of liquid to about 1/2 cup, adding in lime.

– Once liquid is reduced, stir in the green chile. Puree the corn and stir in as well.

– Season to taste, then (if needed) add in a bit of butter, removing from heat and stirring to incorporate. It’s just as tasty without the butter, but it’ll add in extra volume, as well as some lovely buttery flavor.

– Spoon over the sausage slices and serve with the other dishes for a great meal!